Dry embossing with a die is the process of creating an impression in a piece of cardstock, similar to how an embossing folder works. You want the die to push into the cardstock without perforating it. This is accomplished by including an embossing mat in your die sandwich. The mat absorbs the pressure that would ordinarily cut through the cardstock, leaving only the die's impression.
Once the impression is formed, such as with an embossing folder, you can use either the positive or negative side in your project. There are two types of embossing mats: black and tan. Both are silicone and are remarkably durable when used.
To cut with Tonic Studios Dies, we usually insert a piece of paper and a die between two clear cutting plates and ensure that there is enough extra pressure supplied by adding or withdrawing spacers supplied with the machine. In the case of the Big Shot, the proper pressure is obtained by employing the multipurpose platform with both tabs (different thickness plastic sheets) placed beneath the die sandwich. We don't require as much pressure to create the picture when embossing with the die, therefore the sandwich doesn't need to be as thick. Using the normal cutting pressure would rip the cardstock and harm the silicone embossing mat when passed through the machine.
It's also a good idea to keep old cutting plates and use them as the plate next to the mat. The plate next to the mat will bend over time, and utilising an older plate keeps your cutting plates from getting that dreaded buckle that impedes cutting precision. This is another reason I make my sandwich in the manner described above. When I set my "no cut plate" directly on the platform, it does not buckle and will last much longer as a result.
When attempting to run the sandwich through the machine, you do not require the same amount of pressure as when cutting. Because each machine has a different pressure, everyone should experiment with their own machine a little. My machine is still relatively new, therefore the sandwich required for embossing will differ from that of a well-loved, well-used machine. The older machine will apply less force to a sandwich. A 1mm difference can mean the difference between a brilliant emboss and ripped cardstock. It's far preferable to have less impression than buckling and tearing.
Multiple nesting dies can also be used to emboss, but when doing so, tape them together first before laying them on the cardstock. I've discovered that arranging them can be difficult because they tend to slip while trying to get their positioning just perfect. Using a magnetic sheet (from my die storage) on my work area helps keep them in place while I arrange and adhere them together.
If your die buckles the card frequently, consider reducing the pressure on the sandwich. A thicker or more firm paper, on the other hand, can make a significant difference in the results. In the case of the heart die, I had to apply both lighter pressure and firmer cardboard.
If your cardstock is frequently buckling or tearing, it could be due to something other than pressure. Some paper appears to have less cohesiveness in its fibres and is more prone to damage during the embossing process. This is most common on uncoated paper surfaces, such as some stamping cardstocks. Placing a piece (or several pieces) of copy paper between the cardstock and the embossing mat can help to stiffen the cardstock just enough to obtain desired impression. Remember that the more levels you add to your stack, the more pressure is given to it when it runs through your machine.
And there's one more use for a black or tan embossing mat. I've read that when using a small border embossing folder, you can add a piece of mat the same size as the folder to the sandwich (above the embossing folder). Obviously, it will aid in the removal of the folder's edge markings from your cardstock. I don't have border embossing folders to test this, but there are more detailed tutorials accessible online.
When these materials are fully mixed together to form a cohesive powder, they are added in varying amounts to the powdered polymer base to produce a variety of effects and colours. When the powder is heated to a high temperature, the polymer melts together and traps the remaining ingredients inside, forming a raised plastic pattern on the material.
The stencil is placed above the lightbox, followed by the material. The stylus is then used to trace the design of the stencil while providing firm, consistent pressure. The embossed pattern is created by forcing the material down into the empty spaces in the stencil.
Now for a new trick! You could cut a leaf from glitter paper, but if you don't have any or the proper colour, you can emboss a die cut for a sparkling metallic look. That's awesome. I used copper glitter Zing embossing powder in this case. I can't seem to get enough of copper these days.
Embossing gives a high-quality and elegant appearance. Embossing is commonly seen on printed pieces that attempt to impress, such as presentation folders, business cards, invitations, certificates, and brochure covers. When combined with metallic foil or a spot UV treatment, embossing can provide a layer of uniqueness. To create an unusual 3D effect, the image area can be be pre-printed before being embossed.
Embossing is a printing technique that involves pressing an image into paper or cardstock to create a three-dimensional, raised surface with the design higher than the surrounding paper area. The embossing method can be used to create text, logos, and other graphics.
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